To the Arctic Circle

Finally made it to Fairbanks which is the kick-off point for my ride to the top of the world. I have looked forward to this part since I began planning the trip over two years ago. The passage north to Prudhoe Bay and the Arctic Ocean is 497 miles due north of Fairbanks and requires one to ride the notorious "North Slope Haul Road" or as it's now known, the Dalton Highway. If you really want to learn more about this road, click on the link above to learn just how remote and demanding this part of the world truly is.

The James W. Dalton Highway, is a 414-mile road which begins at the end of the paved Elliott Highway, some 75 miles north of Fairbanks, and ends at Deadhorse, Alaska near the Arctic Ocean and the Prudhoe Bay oil fields. Originally called the North Slope Haul Road (a name by which it is still sometimes known), it is mostly gravel and was built as a supply road to support the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System in 1974.

The highway, which directly parallels the pipeline, is one of the most isolated roads in the United States and driving to Deadhorse is as far north as one can travel by road on the entire North American continent. There are no towns as we know them and the few settlements are merely truck stops to support the long-haul truckers running the road. There are no public medical services, cellular service, banks or for that matter, even an ATM until you reach Deadhorse. Of course, that makes little difference as there are very few places to purchase anything other than food, fuel, and an occasional T-shirt at about three places along the route.

Picture # 1: I figured having the Freedom Machine shod with a new set of Continental TKC-80's (knobbies) in Fairbanks would be a smart move before heading out up the Haul Road. My research had told me sections of the road would be under construction and the reports were not incorrect! Thanks to Randy and Jerry at Thunder Road Harley Davidson in Fairbanks, putting on new rubber was fast and efficient. Ask me later how I got the tires! heeeeee

Picture # 2: While I was awaiting my tire change, this guy rolled into the shop on a 1974 Harley Davidson softail. You don't have to be the longest french fry in a happy meal to figure out this guy's probably just rolled off the Dalton Highway.

Inquiring further, I learn that Tony is from the Netherlands and has indeed, just returned from the Arctic Ocean with only first, second and fifth gears! He had lost third and fourth gears somewhere on the north slope haul road and was in looking to purchase another transmission. He tells me the bike has been all over the world and with over 350,000 miles behind her, I believe he's one tough puppy. You'd think looking at his bike and listening to his story about losing the transmission, that I'd be smart enough to forego traveling up the Haul Road. But, as you know, I was on a mission to succeed and not getting Mike's remains to Prudhoe Bay was not an option I was willing to consider. For me, it was Prudhoe Bay or Bust!

Picture # 3: If I hadn't paid any attention to how the "74" Soft-tail looked after enduring the Haul Road, you'd have thought I would at least have gotten a hint as to what this road was going to be like from this road sign,.............but nooooooooooooooo,.......... the Freedom Machine and I pressed on.

Picture # 4: Day one on the Dalton Highway was beautiful with only a little rain as I departed Fairbanks. As you can see in this picture, miles and miles of gravel, tundra and heavy forest. Notice how clean the Freedom Machine is.

Picture # 5 & 6: And then things started to get a little messy. Construction on the Haul Road up around the Yukon River was an indication of what lie in store. Yep, this is the slick, goopy, messy, calcium based stuff that the North Slope Haul Road is notorious for. Still, I ain't turning back and neither is Murphy.

Picture # 7: It isn't long before you start seeing the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. Usually called the Alyeska Pipeline in Alaska or the Alaska Pipeline elsewhere, is a major U.S. oil pipeline connecting oil fields in northern Alaska to a sea port where the oil can be shipped to the lower 48 states for refining. The main Trans-Alaska Pipeline runs north to south, almost 800 miles from the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, Alaska to the Gulf of Alaska at Valdez which it Alaska's northern-most ice-free sea port.

Construction of the pipeline presented significant challenges due to the remoteness of the terrain and the harshness of the environment it had to pass through. Between Arctic Alaska and Valdez, there were three mountain ranges, active fault lines, miles of unstable, boggy ground underlain with frost, and migration paths of caribou and moose. Geological activity has damaged the pipeline on several occasions.

Since its completion in 1977, the pipeline has transported over 15 billion barrels of oil.

Some statistical data for us that enjoy that sort of thing:

Length: 800 miles.
Diameter: 48 inches.
Crosses three mountain ranges and over 800 rivers and streams.
Cost to build: $8 billion in 1977, largest privately funded construction project at that time.
Construction began on March 27, 1975 and was completed on May 31, 1977.
First oil moved through the pipeline on June 20, 1977.
Over 15 billion barrels have moved through the Trans Alaska Pipeline System.
First tanker to carry crude oil from Valdez: ARCO Juneau, August 1, 1977.
Tankers loaded at Valdez: 19,625 through April 30, 2008.
Storage tanks in Valdez- 18 with total storage capacity of 9.1 million barrels total.

Pictures 8, 9, & 10: Well, the Freedom Machine had finally completed part of the mission for which she was purchased. She has delivered Murphy and I to the 66th parallel; 66 degrees, 33 mins. north of the equator, the Arctic Circle!

That mystical, imaginary line that seems to draw people like a moth to flame. I can't exactly explain why this is such a special moment for me but it is. Just as I had anticipated, there are no banners flying, no trumpet salute or confetti in the air, but rather, just an unparalleled serenity that makes me heart feel alive. Just standing here in the middle of the great Alaskan wilderness several hundred miles from civilization as we know it, looking out over a seemingly endless stretch of uninhabited tundra as far as the eye can see. I've finally made it and it's a little after 10:00 p.m.

Light is plentiful and there are no motor home, tour buses, or noisy vehicles anywhere in sight. I'm totally alone here tonight and the only sounds are those of nature. God has a marvelous hand and I am blessed to be here to enjoy his works.

The Arctic Circle is an imaginary line around the Earth (at about 66°33' North Latitude) that defines the boundary of the Arctic region. It marks the start of the area where, for at least one day each year, the sun does not completely set (June 21) or rise (December 22). These dates are referred to as the summer and winter solstices. For some really cool pictures and illustrations regarding the Arctic Circle be sure to spend a little time on this link.

Despite bear warnings and the lack of darkness, I made camp and got a wonderful night of sleep, Sleeping at the Arctic Circle was one of those things on my "bucket list" and now I can cross it off and move on to the next one which is coming up real soon. I feel truly blessed and all my worries are but a fleeting memory at this moment. I hope that all my friends will one day experience this great moment and have the same feeling in their hearts as I have at this moment. Life is Good!!!!!!